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DC-AC Converter Sizing Considerations

  • Safety Certification
  • Power Capacity
  • Power Quality
  • Inverter Efficiency
  • Internal Component Protection
  • Inverter Stacking for 220V Connections
  • Inductive Loads = Amps
  • Idle Inverter Consumption
  • Phantom & Idle Loads
  • Coping with Wasted Power
  • Quality Pays
  • Safety Certification

    First off, insure that your inverter is a safe power module. This is crucial, your power inverter should be certified by an independent testing laboratory such as UL, ETL, CSA, etc., and stamped accordingly. This is your assurance that it be safe, will meet the manufacturer’s specifications, and will be approved in an electrical inspection. There are different design and rating standards for various application environments (buildings, vehicles, boats, etc.). These also vary from one country to another.

    Power Capacity

    How much load can an inverter handle? Its power output is rated in watts (watts = amps x volts). There are three levels of power rating—a continuous rating, a limited-time rating, and a surge rating. Continuous means the amount of power the inverter can handle for an indefinite period of hours. When an inverter is rated at a certain number of watts, that number generally refers to its continuous rating.

    The limited-time rating is a higher number of watts that it can handle for a defined period of time, typically 10 or 20 minutes. The inverter specifications should define these ratings in relation to ambient temperature (the temperature of the surrounding atmosphere). When the inverter gets too hot, it will shut off. This will happen more quickly in a hot atmosphere. The third level of power rating, surge capacity, is critical to its ability to start motors, and is discussed below.

    Some inverters are designed to be interconnected or expanded in a modular fashion, in order to increase their capacity. The most common scheme is to “stack” two inverters. A cable connects the two inverters to synchronize them so they perform as one unit.

    Electric Power Quality — Pure Sine Wave vs. Modified Sine Wave

    Some inverters produce “cleaner” power than others. Simply stated, “sine wave” is clean; anything else is dirty. A sine wave has a naturally smooth geometry, like the track of a swinging pendulum. It is the ideal form of AC power. The utility grid produces sine wave power in its generators and (normally) delivers it to the customer relatively free of distortion. A sine wave inverter can deliver cleaner, more stable power than most grid connections.

    How clean is a “sine wave”? The manufacturer may use the terms “pure” or “true” to imply a low degree of distortion. The facts are included in the inverter’s specifications. Total harmonic distortion (THD) lower than 6 percent should satisfy normal home requirements. Look for less than 3 percent if you have unusually critical electronics, as in a recording studio for example.

    Other specs are important too. RMS voltage regulation keeps your lights steady. It should be plus or minus 5 percent or less. Peak voltage (Vp) regulation needs to be plus or minus 10 percent or less.

    A “modified sine wave” inverter is less expensive, but it produces a distorted square waveform that resembles the track of a pendulum being slammed back and forth by hammers. In truth, it isn’t a sine wave at all. The misleading term “modified sine wave” was invented by advertising people. Engineers prefer to call it “modified square wave.”
    Modified Sine Wave and a True Sine Wave - AC 115 volt at 60 oscillations per minute (115VAC, 60 Hz)
    The modified sine wave has detrimental effects on many electrical loads. It reduces the energy efficiency of motors and transformers by 10 to 20 percent. The wasted energy causes abnormal heat which reduces the reliability and longevity of motors and transformers and other devices, including some appliances and computers. The choppy waveform confuses some digital timing devices.

    About 5 percent of household appliances simply won’t work on modified sine wave power at all. A buzz will be heard from the speakers of nearly every audio device. An annoying buzz will also be emitted by some fluorescent lights, ceiling fans, and transformers. Some microwave ovens buzz or produce less heat. TVs and computers often show rolling lines on the screen. Surge protectors may overheat and should not be used.

    Modified sine wave inverters were tolerated in the 1980s, but since then, sine wave inverters have become more efficient and more affordable. Some people compromise by using a modified sine wave inverter to run their larger power tools or other occasional heavy loads, and a small sine wave inverter to run their smaller, more frequent, and more sensitive loads. Modified sine wave inverters in renewable energy systems have started fading into history.

    Inverter Efficiency

    It is not possible to convert power without losing some of it (it’s like friction). Power is lost in the form of heat. Efficiency is the ratio of power out to power in, expressed as a percentage. If the efficiency is 90 percent, 10 percent of the power is lost in the inverter. The efficiency of an inverter varies with the load. Typically, it will be highest at about two-thirds of the inverter’s capacity. This is called its “peak efficiency.” The inverter requires some power just to run itself, so the efficiency of a large inverter will be low when running very small loads.

    In a typical home, there are many hours of the day when the electrical load is very low. Under these conditions, an inverter’s efficiency may be around 50 percent or less. The full story is told by a graph of efficiency vs. load, as published by the inverter manufacturer. This is called the “efficiency curve.” Read these curves carefully. Some manufacturers cheat by starting the curve at 100 watts or so, not at zero!

    Because the efficiency varies with load, don’t assume that an inverter with 93 percent peak efficiency is better than one with 85 percent peak efficiency. If the 85 percent efficient unit is more efficient at low power levels, it may waste less energy through the course of a typical day.

    Internal Inverter Component Protection

    An inverter’s sensitive components must be well protected against surges from nearby lightning and static, and from surges that bounce back from motors under overload conditions. It must also be protected from overloads. Overloads can be caused by a faulty appliance, a wiring fault, or simply too much load running at one time.

    An inverter must include several sensing circuits to shut itself off if it cannot properly serve the load. It also needs to shut off if the DC supply voltage is too low, due to a low battery state-of-charge or other weakness in the supply circuit. This protects the batteries from over-discharge damage, as well as protecting the inverter and the loads. These protective measures are all standard on inverters that are certified for use in buildings.

    Stacking Inverters for 220 Volt Loads

    Stacking two inverters together allows them to produce double their rated capacity as well as 3-wire, 220 VAC power. This enables you to operate large power tools, deep well pumps and any other load that requires 220 VAC power.

    Inductive Loads & Surge Capability of a DC-AC Power Inverter

    Some loads absorb the AC wave’s energy in a regimented fashion, other loads will take all available power until they reach sufficient start up speed. This produces a time delay within the system and can create shocks, like towing a car with a rubber strap. These loads, if not sufficiently fed, create lags within the system, and can have big effects of the surrounding electrical system. If you have a central A/C and your lights dim, that is the result of a motor or other inductive load drawing all available power, starving the lights momentarily. Motors are the most severely inductive loads. They are found in well pumps, washing machines, refrigerators, power tools, etc. TVs and microwave ovens are also inductive loads. Like motors, they draw a surge of power when they start.

    If an inverter cannot efficiently feed an inductive load, it may simply shut down instead of slowly starting the device, as in the central a/c example above. If the inverter’s surge capacity is marginal, its output voltage will dip during the surge. This can cause a dimming of the lights in the house, and can crash a computer, ruin LCD TV screens, Plasma TVs and other sensitive electronics. Any weakness in the battery and cabling to the inverter will further limit its ability to start a motor as the increased amperage draw will result in further voltage deterioration. See wire voltage drop here

    A battery bank that is undersized, has corroded connections, or is in poor condition, can be a weak link in the power chain. The inverter cables and the battery interconnect cables must be big, and I mean really big, perhaps the size of a large thumb! See next section The spike of DC current through these cables is many hundreds of amps at the instant of motor starting. Follow the inverter’s instruction manual when sizing the cables, or you’ll cheat yourself.

    Wire Voltage Loss

    The simple reason for loss of current in wire is resistance, this loss is transformed to heat by friction. Your local electrical ordinances govern the maximum voltage loss, and your electrician is initmately familiar with the problem, but you should be aware. If you try to build your own system, DO NOT CHEAT YOUR EFFICIENCY WITH SMALL WIRES.

    Let's forget about that heat for a moment, and the resulting fire considerations, and concentrate on the loss. To illustrate the loss point we have run some equations on a series of loads at 12 volts. We varied the amperage from 1 (one) to 350 (three hundred fifty) amps, and kept the voltage the same on the test end. (SEVERAL OF THESE WOULD HAVE STARTED A FIRE IF INSTALLED - CONSULT LOCAL CODE BEFORE INSTALLING!!!) This first graph shows the loss of voltage at the business end of the wire.
    Voltage loss over 40 feet of various cables at different amperages, 12 volts
    This loss is dramatic on the 6 guage wire, but to truly get a feeling of the loss you need to see the resulting wattage. Using ohms law, volts x amps = watts, we can calculate the wattage at the business end of the wire. With this graph you can see that the 6 guage wire tops out under 1.1 KW no matter the amperage.
    Resulting Voltage at 40` of various cables at different amperages, 12 volts


    To calculate the wire and voltage drop for your particlular application please go here.

    Idle Inverter Power

    Idle power is the consumption of the inverter when it is on, but no loads are running. It is “wasted” power, so if you expect the inverter to be on for many hours during which there is very little load (as in most residential situations), you want this to be as low as possible. Typical idle power ranges from 15 watts to 50 watts for an inverter sized for a home system. An inverter’s spec sheet may describe the inverter’s “idle current” in amps. To get watts,just multiply this times the DC voltage of the system.

    Phantom Loads and Idle Loads Wasted Power

    High-tech consumers (most of us Americans) are stuck with gadgets that draw power whenever they are plugged in. Some of them use power to do nothing at all. An example is a TV with a remote control. Its electric eye system is on day and night, watching for your signal to turn the screen on. Every appliance with an external wall-plug transformer uses power even when the appliance is turned off. These little demons are called “phantom loads” because their power draw is unexpected, unseen, and easily forgotten.

    Another concern is “idling loads.” These are devices that must be on all the time in order to function when needed. These include smoke detectors, alarm systems, motion detector lights, fax machines, and answering machines. Central heating systems have a transformer in their thermostat circuit that stays on all the time. Cordless (rechargeable) appliances draw power even after their batteries reach a full charge. If in doubt, feel the device. If it’s warm, that indicates wasted energy.

    Coping With Wasted Power

    How many phantom or idling loads do you have?

    There are several ways to cope with phantom and idling loads:
  • You may be able to avoid them (in a small cabin or simple-living situation).
  • You can minimize their use and disconnect them when not needed, using external switches (such as switched plug-in strips or receptacles).
  • You can work around them by modifying certain equipment to shut off completely (central heating thermostat circuits, for example).
  • You can use some DC appliances.
  • You can pay the additional cost for a large enough power system to handle the extra loads plus the inverter’s idle current.
  • Be careful and honest if you contemplate avoiding all phantom and idling loads. You cannot always anticipate future needs or human behavior.

    Quality Pays

    A good inverter is an industrial quality device proven reliable, certified for safety, and can last decades. A cheap inverter may soon end up junkpile, and can even be a fire hazard. Consider inverter to be a foundation component. Buy a good that allows for future expansion of your needs.

    Portions of this page can be found on Home Power Magazine's Home Power #82 • April / May 2001, Reprinted with permission from Home Power
    The remainder is the express copyright and posession of Broomfield Designers and BD Batteries
    Battery Systems 101
    Battery Chargers Info
    Battery Inverters Info
    Lags, Sags, Surges Spikes and Transients
    Grid Tie Info
    Custom Uninterruptable Power Supplies Info
    Wire Rules and Info

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